09 Jun
clarklewis in Portland Oregon
(1 votes, average: 5 out of 5)
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In what was not long ago a loading dock, clarklewis is a sophisticated gem on the creative frontier of Portland’s unpolished Inner Eastside. Chef Dolan Lane’s hearty dishes from the wood-fired hearth/rotisserie find their perfect complement in the fresh, unmanipulated flavors of the best in locally-sourced product. Expect the exceptional.
clarklewis
1001 SE Water Avenue
503-493-9500
Lunch Monday - Friday, dinner Monday - Saturday
They’re young, they’re hip and they’re building a food empire in Portland. Owned by Naomi and Michael Pommeroy and their rising star chef, Morgan Brownlow, clarklewis restaurant defies convention (just as the restaurant name challenges the way we normally refer to the famous explorers).
For instance, you might not expect from these young restaurateurs such reverence for ingredients and time-honored, slow-cooking methods. While the crowd might be hip at this former loading dock/warehouse space in industrial southeast Portland, the food is anything but. It is, in fact, honest and even soulful.
The restaurant’s roots are rustic-Italian, with a special touch with the braised meats and handmade pastas. If ordering à la carte, it becomes an interactive experience: you define your portion size and whether or not you want it served family style. (Clearly, this is one area where the restaurant defies convention; when I lived in Italy, the Italian restaurateurs were charming and helpful, but never this flexible!)
This is quite simply too much decision making for me which is why I highly recommend the chef’s menu - a decision-free dining nirvana with a different dish for each person in the party for each of three to four courses. Hands-down, it is the best meal and best bargain ($35 per person) I’ve had in Portland. The atmosphere is a very casual minimalist chic, with dim lighting, and can be loud.
June 9th, 2008 at 9:13 am